Instant Install 29-20 oz Epoxy Permanent Repair Kit - Granite, Marble, Porcelain, Quartz, & Tile - Chips/Cracks - Rebonds/Rebuilds Missing Pieces - Dry in 29 Minutes - Tintable with EZ-Tint

Recently I found several chips where you come out of the shower/threshold and a friend found this for me and said let’s try this versus replacing a whole piece of granite. It worked amazingly well and has held up like a champ. You have to move fast as it dries fairly quickly and you can mix multiple color options as well. It is really amazing epoxy. You won’t be disappointed. I was expecting the worst but received the best!

I purchased this epoxy product back in April 2022 and again in Dec 2022. Worked great both times. Highly recommend! The first repair was to "clear" fill a crack in a marble floor where the slab under neath cracked. Next job was to filled travertine holes to keep dirt from accumulating. Note the cracks and holes must be completely free of dirt, oil, wax and water. The clear epoxy picks up the color of the marble and travertine and is almost invisible, matching the stone filler used by the factory. The Dec Job was to fill small chips 1/8" to 1/4" in a ceramic tile. The tile was a beige with brown/gray streaks. Since the chipped holes reveled the red/dark brow tile, the color needed to be matched. ordered the EZ-Tint 4 Pack color power pack recommended by the seller to mix with the epoxy. Unfortunately, I could not find a combination with these four color tints to match the tile. I went against the sellers recommendation no to use liquid tints. I bought a liquid tint specifically for epoxy gel coats ( Fasco Epoxies-Beige Pigment for Epoxy Resin, Gelcoat, Paint - 4 oz). To that I added Brown and Black EZ-Tint 4 Pack color power to get the shade I wanted. The critical thinag I learned by experimentation is the liquid color must be mixed into the "RED" Instant 29 material before mixing in the "Black" Instant 29 or the epoxy does not harden. Use only a small amount og liquid colorant to not screw up the epoxy. Note: any moisture, even high humidity prevents or inhibits epoxy from curing properly. I like to clean with MEK. Besides the razor for scraping excess, MEK can remove thin epoxy film in the first hour or two. Always work with small batches. Starts to gum/harden in about 15 minutes at 70F. Do not use gummy epoxy-it wont adhere and smooth properly. If you screw up use MEK to remove the epoxy before it cures. By the way MEK fumes are nasty. I suspect that those buyers who rated the product as poor may not have properly prepared the surface (i.e sand the underlying gel coat or fiberglass on their boat) or had too high of a moisture content on the part or in the air. While the manufacturer did not specify a minimum working temperature, I suggest you have the part you are repairing and air temperature above 60F. A lower temperature may not cause the necessary chemical reaction to harden the epoxy. Follow the instructions for best results.

Good product to repair granite. It was simpler concealing cracks, but patching a faucet hole in kitchen granite counter took several attempts to finally "match". I think I applied, scraped and reapplied 6-7 times before I was satisfied, so be prepared to experiment, it's easy to apply, harder to match. With the accompanying color packets, a little goes a long way. Use new razor blades, lots of them.

I'm surprised there are so many negative reviews - this stuff is insanely good. There were two giant chunks of countertop broken when I bought my house. The previous owner was a terrible DIYer, and used silicone to glue them back in. They were near the sink, and eventually lost their adhesion and worked their way loose. Now, I am also a DIYer, and have never even attempted anything like this before, but I at least do my due diligence enough to have found this product (and to know not to use silicone to repair granite!). You can see the before and after in my pics, and the after came out way better than even I could have hoped. Even in person it's barely noticeable, you have to really, really look. And part of the repair included building up a missing chunk, so you know this is pretty incredible stuff. Here are my tips.. Buy a bunch of small samples to test your countertop color, I just searched "Mica Powder for Epoxy Resin" and a ton of options came up. This set of 24 had the color "Black Sea" that matched my green countertop almost perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759DH4ZG. I bought a few others and just returned the ones that didn't look right in person - it's sometimes hard to tell from a screen. The nice thing is that these little packs go a long way - you really don't need a lot of pigment at all to get your color. I still have about 95% of the color packet left over after my repair. Use more than one color; I marbled mine with a black dye that I had on hand. Clean your working area thoroughly, I used TSP, and test fit the pieces before you install them. Seem obvious, but still needs to be said. Test test test. I can't stress this one enough. It will help you get color and the mixture right, and give you more confidence working with it. Because it hardens so quickly, it really doesn't add on much time to do a few tests to get your color and consistency right. And it will give you a feel for your timing. I used my Echo to set a 1 minute timer to mix, a 5 minute working time, and then another 5 minute second-half working timer as a sort of warning to myself - and I could feel it start to get harder towards the end to the point where it becomes unworkable. Then just clean up the excess, mask it up with Frog tape, and leave it for the remaining time. Don't let it over-dry! I did that the first time and it got too hard - it flaked off with the razor instead of easily peeling off, and it pulled out the repair from my crevices. I found just following their directions exactly produced the best results (go figure). And don't be afraid to mess up. I tested it out a few times on some smaller less noticeable areas of my sink and found the color wasn't right, or the repair had other issues. I worked those out in the smaller places before tackling the big repair. I ended up pulling some of those out, it's pretty forgiving stuff until it really cures. Also, it seems to work better on deeper cracks where it has something to bite into. Go slow and steady with the razor when you're done, and if you mess it up, it's fine. You can just rebuild. I had to rebuild the small missing gap a few times before I finally got it to where I was satisfied. I know it seems like all this testing takes forever, but trust me it doesn't. I was done in an hour or so, and couldn't be happier. The end result far exceeded any expectations I had going into this, but I followed the directions exactly, did my research, experimented, and took my time on the final repair. If I can do it, literally anyone can. This stuff works.

Used to repair a broken marble base to an antique French clock. Once dried it easily razors flush for additional concealment of repair. Very satisfied!