Cutting NOT Required - Key Fob Keyless Entry Remote Shell Case & Pad fits Honda 2003-2012 Accord / 2006-2013 Civic EX / 2009-2015 Pilot /2005-2006 CR-V

My key fob was sadly coming apart. After getting a new battery put in at one of my oil changes; I noticed the connection from front to back was loose and then at some point it would not stay together. I ended up duct taping it together as I was told a new key fob was really expensive. I was so happy when someone shared that they had seen a key fob for Honda on Amazon. So for such a low price, it was worth a try. I was so happy that this fit perfectly. The assembly was pretty easy but I did struggle a little to align everything up and wasn’t sure how hard I could push as I didn’t want to break it. I may need to change the battery now, but it does work and bonus I don’t need duct tape any longer.

I repaired the key for my Honda Pilot without any problems! Fast delivery, works perfectly; it is a truly high-quality product at a reasonable price. I would buy it again—I give it a 10 out of 10!

Ordered this as replacement to 2012 Honda Pilot key shell as it broke. All components fit like a glove and were easy to install. I did have to force to close at the end but it snapped right in. Note that this is just a shell and current metal key along with control need to be placed inside this shell so no programming required. But also this does not include controls or metal piece to cut.

The keyfob on my 2012 Honda Accord was cracked on the front between some of the buttons and around the right side. When you put it in the ignition to start the car and turned it, the whole case would flex, and it felt like it was about to snap apart, so I purchased this. When I received this, I took the screw out and pried off the back of the shell, and pulled the button/transmitter part out of the front. I do not have the transponder chip, so I didn't have to worry about that. The first problem I had was that the metal key part seemed to be molded into the base of the front piece, and I debated on continuing. After thinking about this for a while, I decided to go for it and pry out the key by holding the top and prying the key part up and down with some force. After doing this for a bit, the top of the key (the T part) popped right out. I cleaned up the key and the button/transmitter. I slid the key into the key holder plastic part (the smallest plastic part). When I got to the top of the key, it was a little difficult to get the key to seat properly into this. I got a straight screwdriver and pushed down on the top of the key while holding the plastic part. Note: The screw hole on one side was at the top of the hole, and not in the middle like I expected. The second problem I had was putting the key part into the shell. It fits fine into the front, but the back would not snap on. I took it apart and looked at it again and realized there were two notches in the back of the case where the key holder goes with two corresponding notches on the key holder. So, I put the key holder part into the back, slid it down onto the notches, and then I was able to close the front onto the back, and I put the screw in. It seems to be solid, and it works well.

Exactly what it said it was. Very simple to change over the insides and change over the key. The kit comes with a small sleeve that slides iver the key and fits at the key base it a T base that slides under a small notch to keep the key in flush between and facilitates a tight fit between the two halfs of the plastic body. Super easy to figure out once you look at it. 2013 Pilot EXL

I have a Honda Accord 2005 - (FOB has a transponder chip. - I never knew that). Just like many of the thousands of people that have the broken plastic on their Honda Accord Key/FOB, I decided to buy this $6.00 shell and do it myself. Honda service wanted $165.00 to replace it, but I figured a $6.00 part and a ten minute job was the better option for me. Well, it was a bit more challenging than I thought. It took me five minutes to switch the module and key to the new FOB. Pressed the lock/unlock/trunk buttons and it worked fine. Then, I tried to start the car, and the engine would only crank and not start. Hmmm!! So, after watching YouTube to see why his happens, this is where you learn things that you never knew before The old FOB has a transponder chip in a "hidden" slot. When you first open the old FOB, you see the slot but think nothing of it, so you ignore it. Although you think nothing of it, that slot holds the chip. There is a very tiny cover on that slot. Use a small flat screwdriver to pop off the cover to the slot. Then, you need to pull out the tiny chip. In my case, the chip was very tight in that slot. I had to pry away the plastic edges of the slot before the chip came out. After that, I just dropped the chip into a open space on the new FOB. Note: The new FOB does not have the same type of chip slot as the old FOB. The new FOB just has a open space. Because of this, I had to use small pieces of electrical tape to hold the chip into position so that it does not move around. - see attached picture. After all this, the key worked fine and the car started up OK. The buttons line up ok, but are a little deeper (sunken in) a little more than I wanted, but still OK. BTW: Getting the new FOB covers to snap together took many attempts to line up. The covers were prevented from snapping together because that plastic key molding kept kept interfering. I had to shift it back/forth a ton of times before getting the covers to snap together. Important Notes: 1. It was a bit of a struggle to pull out the transponder chip from the old FOB slot. Be careful not to break the chip. 2. The product details on this Amazon page do note that people need to transfer the transponder chip to the new FOB. However, I don't think that people really understand what this means because there is nothing on the old FOB that looks like a chip. The chip is hidden in that plastic slot. 3. There are certain years/models of cars that don't use a transponder chip, thus it would only take a minute to switch to the new FOB - Hence why you see so many good reviews stating it was easy to change out. The seller needs to put that warning in boldface fonts and warning people that they should check their current FOB first. (just a friendly suggestion). 4. If your FOB has a transponder chip, and you are hesitant or not sure how to transfer it to the new FOB, then I suggest you pay Honda the $165.00 to get a replacement. Not worth getting stuck somewhere with your car not starting because you did not change out the chip correctly. Overall, yes, I saved $165.00 and did the job myself for $6.00, but wow, this (the chip) was a challenge. On YouTube, so a search for "Honda Key FOB Immobilizer Hack, Broken Key".

Got this for a 2005 Accord key where the plastic around the metal blade had started to crack badly. I expected this to be a very quick install, but it ended up being a lot more involved than I expected. Not surprisingly, the instructions are very limited - here are some things I found that I hope you may find useful. 1) Your old metal blade may be very hard to remove from the old key housing. In my case, since it was already cracking around it, I was able to snap it out, but if the housing wasn't damaged around the blade you may need to use side cutters to cut the plastic off around it. Trying to lever the key out of the housing may result in bending it if the plastic isn't already cracked - so be careful. 2a) If you have a transponder (I did! See the first and second photos) you may be in for a wild ride figuring out how to deal with it. To start, it was incredibly difficult to remove, in addition to being press fit into the top plastic shell with a little cap over it, one end had a small blob of glue holding it in place. I ended up needing to cut out the plastic around it with an x-acto knife to free it. 2b) Once the chip is out, there's no way to mount it like in the OEM key, just a space where it can go. It will definitely rattle around, and if the key ever cracks open for any reason it will almost certainly be lost - meaning you won't be able to start the car. I ended up using two little blobs of hot glue, one in the bottom of the spot where the chip sits, and then one along the top edge of the remote unit. If you choose to use glue, make sure you use a glue that can be removed! I almost used epoxy but then realized I would never be able to get the remote out to change the battery! Hot glue will keep it from rattling around inside, but then can be peeled off later when it's time to change the battery. 3) The plastic frame that slides over the blade fits VERY snugly. If you have any crud on the blade, especially around the bottom, it will have a hard time going down. Clean the blade with an alcohol wipe or similar to get around this. Once it's clean, note the orientation of the frame to the blade, there's a taper at the bottom that should be clear, then pull the frame down with even pressure one each side. The hole in the blade may not perfectly align with the holes in the frame. Mine still ended up going together just fine despite this, but be aware of it. 4) The blade/frame piece does not float between the two halves of the housing, it mounts into the back half. There are grooves it will slide into, then click into place. Again, if you look closely, it will be intuitive. 5) The halves hinge together from the back of the housing, at the key ring slot. 6) Do not over-tighten the screw - if it's not going in smoothly, take it out and make sure it's aligned well. Once it's all the way in, don't "torque" it down - you'll either snap it in half or strip the threading in the housing. This is a good product at a great price and I expect it will hold up well, but take care when assembling it or you'll end up buying another one.

Item did what I was supposed to but if you can’t afford to have the key reprogrammed I recommend keeping the top half of old key fob (has transmitter ) and the bottom of new key fob to screw in key and then tape it together. I tried to use just the new fob and my car would play radio , lock/unlock, windows worked. But it would not start! Until I did what I recommended in the beginning of this review. Best of luck

Quedo excelente a mi llave del coche

Buen producto aún no lo he instalado. Gracias

Cette coquille permet de retrouver le plein usage de la clé et nous fait ainsi épargner beaucoup d’argent. Il est facile à utiliser et nous redonne une clé neuve.

El producto resulto 100% compatible para restaurar la llave original de mi Honda Civic 2012 Sedan. No tuve ningún problema para realizar la,sustitucion de la carcasa original rota de mi llave por la nueva. Solo fue necesario hacerle un poco de limpieza a la parte metálica de mi llave, ya que tenia algunos residuos adheridos. que dificultaban el armado.

Muy buen producto