Bare Essentials: Bras - Third Edition: Construction and Pattern Design for Lingerie Design

Description

The third edition of this book introduces the Porcelynne Pattern Drafting and Manipulation Method. This method is a mathematical approach to determining measurements for drafting a custom bra. Jennifer Fairbanks approaches pattern manipulation and design unlike previous methods. Developing the methods used in this book was not only challenging, but it was also thorough. This third edition of Bare Essentials: Bras introduces drafting for torso shape and height.The Bare Essentials series is an invaluable resource for anyone entering into the field of lingerie design and intimate apparel. This volume summarizes the basics of bra design, from sewing and construction to drafting and pattern grading; introducing these subjects in a manageable capacity.Bare Essentials: Bras is organized into three main sections based on the complexities of the information provided, each section introduces more complicated drafting methods.The first section of this book teaches how to construct a bra utilizing a pattern that is included in the back of the book. There are also simple pattern changes introduced in this section, including changing the elastic width, construction methods and general fitting changes.The intermediate section of Bare Essentials: Bras explains more complicated drafting manipulations including creating a nursing bra, mastectomy bras, padded and demi cut bras.The advanced section of this book, introduces the Porcelynne Pattern Drafting method to create a band, then a cup based on 5 measurements and the wire. The draft creates a simple 3-piece cup to determine the volume required for a cup. The sloper creation chapter takes this 3-piece cup and redefines how to create custom designs based on this 3-piece cup sloper. The advanced section concludes with grading instructions for both hand drafting and computer drafting. This book is thorough in grading for both cup size and wire size. Patterns for this book can be downloaded at Porcelynne.com. They are located as an option for the book. These are the basics that you will learn:• Construction methods using elastics and stretch fabrics• Manipulation of basic patterns• Pattern drafting from measurements• Sloper creation and complex pattern manipulation• Developing grade rules and grading patterns Review: Technical, leaves you to do a lot of the measurements - Like Suxanne commented the book it very technical but that's exactly what I was going out of my way to find as for me I'm always confused where random measurement comes from and understanding of why something requires measuring makes it all click for me. she explains how she came up with the measurements and gives you space to write your own as well as instructions on how to do some of them. She also provided a link to her website that figures out the calculations once you but it your main measurements. I'm not a reader but each of the steps are around two sentences with a easily readable diagrams as well as instructions of if you choose to do the patterns on photoshop It is written relatively informally, I just wish there was a glossary at the back of all the terms she used. As it took me a while to understand what the difference between the bust and chest measurement were for example but apart from that easy to read and rationales where explained well. Lucked out on this book! Review: Very simple! - I was very skeptical at first but I’m really loving it!!! I regret not buying the print version (I bought the digital in case didn't like it). I will probably purchase the printed in a few months. Can’t wait to try stuff out. I might not have come across it yet but I thought perhaps it would say how to draft bra blocks? It seems it assumes you have a bra pattern already. It’s okay if not though as I have other books. This one explains things very simply which I’m very happy with. The simplest instructions I found. I haven't drafted anything yet but fingers crossed! I'm gutted the underwear version isn't available; otherwise I’d purchase that too.