Radiator Coolant Fan Switch

The pictures shows the old one and the new one. They look like they are made alike and the new one fit my truck perfectly! The old one started leaking and caused the temperature gauge to be way off and my truck wouldn't start right up at times. The new sensor seems to have cured the issues I had. It only took a few minutes to change it and it was pretty easy, my temperature gauge now reads accurately. So far it works great!

Worked.

Better quality

IMPORTANT - I got tired and frustrated reading the same forum material all of you have. From enthusiasts to mechanics to know-nothings, everyone has an opinion and they're all flawed when it comes to radiator fan switches. Here's the skinny... You can read all you want, test all you want; however, unless you know the rated switch temp for your vehicle and buy a switch that switches at that temperature reliably, you have no reason to parrot an opinion to anyone. I'm not going to go through the testing procedures, that dead horse has been drug all over the internet for decades. What I will say is that, in my case, my 2005 CRV was running hot (the K24 engine runs hot) and the radiator fan switch wasn't activating till 224F - far above everyone's 'opinion'. I finally installed this switch and my fan came on at 202F - better than before and I was happy. However, it will also come on at 194F and sometimes a bit higher; so, it is not consistent. Yes, it is consistently within the operating range I prefer; but, not necessarily the one Honda thinks is correct. Maybe Honda doesn't care; but, if Honda doesn't state the specific value or range then I'll be running my car a bit cooler than ideal. One more observation: when my old switch turned on (224F) it stayed on longer and dropped the temps to 188F or lower. I liked this feature. The new switch sometimes turns off almost immediately after the temp begins to drop. Not the worst thing in the world but will activate more often this way. It may be that the old switch stayed on longer (or took longer to turn off) because it was old and slower... dunno....it was the original switch and survived 132K miles and the temp gauge never budged at all. Another observation of how Honda set this up (and I don't like this either) is that if you turn the car off when the fan decides to cool the car down the fan will stop; it will not continue like other vehicles whose fan continues running when the car is off. If there was 12V running to that fan when the ignition was off, we'd have that feature (in the 2nd Gen CRV) It is annoying that Honda doesn't release the exact high temp, just a range of operating temps that the temp gauge fixes to. I want my car to run optimally at its age. It's also very difficult to figure out issues with your car when you can't set constants. The price is fine. OEM price is ridiculous. Also, the original switch at 224F never set a light or raised my gauge past center... So, again, Honda likely finds 224F an appropriate value (for my car) and isn't concerned about providing a specific value as there isn't one until the temp gauge raises. By then it's too late - a pretty lacking feature imo.

Direct fit into my gmc sierra 1500, excellent part and $80 cheaper than oem

Great

Really not happy when I have to go through the hassle of removing the plastic under carriage covers, drain the coolant, remove the old part, install the "new" part, put everything back together, test the system. ONLY TO DO IT AGAIN!!!!! 7 MONTHS LATER. Come on-EVERY part should come with at least a 12 month return policy. Why? Then you would see how quality would matter to third party merchants. And, let me say there are some excellent ones out there on amazon. If you state it's as good as OEM, then you should be able to guarantee the part for 12 months OR don't sell on amazon. And, please remember, the labor whether a certified mechanic or a DIY'er does the job-isn't free. My time isn't free, and anybody who has had their cars/trucks worked on recently can assure you the mechanic isn't free. AMAZON-please address the quality issue. When you first started out (long time customer here.), the prices from you and third parties were of good value. Now it seems anybody and everybody who sells items on amazon can claim whatever and get away with it. And, a lot of items ain't so great, and prices aren't that cheap. I know "market share is what matters"-BUT, really to what extent? Your customer service for the most part is second to none-seriously. And, I rarely get a hard time if I'm returning an item. However, a serious upgrade on merchants and third party providers is warranted. I'm trying to be objective, so please know-I've been a PRIME member forever, an amazon unlimited music subscriber, an audible subscriber, recently bought a 75" Omni Fire TV, and sound system from amazon, and probably spend $10k-$20k a year at amazon.com aaaaaaaaand have the intention to purchase another $5k soon, based on my wish lists, AND, my family members; wife, brother, son, daughter, even our pets get the amazon special treatment every once in a while. Oh, and I'd like to also mention-the overnight delivery was an outrageous surprise. However, the Prime delivery is slacking a little-2 days, should mean 2 days-not 3,4, and some times 5 days. If we're paying for (Prime) through membership (which by the way amazon subscriptions all went up) then amazon-raise the bar!!! AMAZON you're the big guy on the block, OK, then do the right thing and rectify some areas that quite frankly aren't what they used to be. My two sense, for what it's worth.

It was very easily to install and works great. A word of advise to if you get the engine error code P0128, I would personally change the $11 sensor, instead of the whole thermostat which is about $30 for my car. I got this code and replaced the thermostat, which was a bit tricky and time consuming. In the end the OEM thermostat was fine and it ended up being this sensor. The sensor is way easier to fix, and it might fix your engine code P0128. I used this piece on my 2005 Honda CRV The specific socket size that I needed to remove the sensor was a 24MM Also you may need an socket adaptor, in my case I needed a 3/8" to a 1/2" (I used a Craftsman CMMT99293)