RF remote

I have a Chamberlain garage door opener from the 1970's and the remotes were not working. About 3 years ago, I replaced the remote/receiver unit with Chamberlain's OEM model 955D. Sadly, the new unit did not work much better, so I gave up. 3 years later I tried again, but now with this eMylo unit. After some tinkering, I got it to work, and it's been flawless since. Works from at least a block away, every time on the first press. Here are some installation notes: (1) I cut the end off an old 12v DC adapter and wired it into the power port. The power light came on. (2) I put the unit in "momentary" mode by holding down the black program button as described in the instructions till the red light flashed 3 times. (3) I paired the remote to the unit following the instructions -- you will know it is paired correctly when you press either button on the remote and not only does the red light flash but you also hear an audible CLICK sound. Because the red light was illuminating when I was pressing the button, I thought it was paired but it wasn't and this took a fair amount of time to figure out. You need to hear the click sound. (4) I wired the garage door motor to NO1 and COM1. NO2 and COM2 worked, also ... I checked. (5) I extended the antennae wire to close to its full length, and was careful not to pull too hard at the connection point. I didn't see anyone else mention extending the antennae wire - not sure it matters, but couldn't hurt. (6) I used a file in a couple of places on the plastic cover, to allow more room for the power cable and antenna to come out when closed. It sounds like a lot, but if you don't hit any snags, it's a quick process. That's it. Hope you have success using this device! Now I am going to try and program the remote into my car mirror - wish me luck!

We purchased this for our garage door as our existing remotes were becoming unreliable. This does exactly what I expected: it's connected to the physical button terminals and acts just the same. Things you'll need to know: this does not come with a power supply; we used an old 12v adapter we had in a box. The directions are ok but it's not clear on which terminals you might need if your use case is not 1 of 3 in the instructions. Once the terminals were identified, installation was pretty fast. While it's only been about 1 week, I'd recommend this device for anyone with a DIY need for a remote switch.

This did come with instructions however I am under the impression that this isn't for a complete novice. I am using a HDS-TEK(TM) New DC 12V /2.0A Switching Power Supply Adapter for 110V- 240V AC 50/60hz 2.1mm with DC Connector Gift (1 in Package) by HDS-TEK to power it as it does require 12v power. I needed something with two channels because I have a motor solenoid that has a forward and reverse and this 2 channel relay can mimic a forward and reverse for a motor. This is programmable in the sense that it can be momentary, latching or interlatching via holding down the programming button. I would say the plastic housing isn't quite big enough to fit all of the wiring in it. I used a Dremel to "expand the housing" a bit. Wiring this isn't really all that difficult if you have a decent understanding of NC/NO/COM wiring. Range seems to be pretty good. I would recommend purchasing this if you are getting into relay automation.As a side note there isn't an indication of what gauge of wiring to use. I ended up using a usb cable from an old mouse (cut, strip and you'll get multiple cables haha).

It looked like a nice little package. Two remotes, two relays on the board, 12V power. But it didn't work. The board responded to all the steps in pairing and programming the remotes to operated the relays. But the relays never operated. The LEDs blinked appropriately and at the right times while being programmed, but that was all.Unfortunately, it's not worth any more of my time.

The control fobs are excellent quality. I used this module to control some add-on running headlights of my RV. Couldn't be happier.

I needed to start and stop a small engine on a Manlift while in the basket The original wired controls had failed. I set the unit to momentary latched mode where you press and hold a button to use that function. I wired side A to engage the starter and side B to ground the magneto. Works perfectly. I can now work from the bucket without noise, without running out of gas and without a helper to restart the lift.

I wired with 24 AWG solid single strand copper for (-) jumpers. Wired for switching ground for very low amp LED 16' strip light and 10W LED flood light. Doubtful Id use it for 10A switching (+) current flow. Not enough room for stranded 16 nor 18AWG jumper wires, within case enclosure; an additional 4mm L&W needed. Excellent 30+m transmitter reception with extended antenna.Programming was the real issue. Finally found a single YouTube vid directly relevant to this 2 chnl variant.

Initially i had one Gate remote and one Garage Remote(Large size remote), what this amazing device made possible was to tap into both wiring which i did myself because of good instructions and now i have two nice small pocket size remote where i can use button A for Gate and button B for Garage. This item is awesome