VEVOR Metal Lathe, Upgraded Digital Display 7"x14" Benchtop Metal Lathe 550W Variable Speed 2250RPM with 3-jaw Chuck CNC Mini Lathe Machine Precision Mini Lathe Tool Box for Metal Turning

Fast shipment from the vendor & very professional! I would recommend this machine to any of my friends. It's a great bargain for its size class. The machine arrived undamaged. Everything appears to be working as it should. Tolerances and runouts are as advertised and will not require much, if any adjustment. It's just a nice little lathe! Machines packed for overseas transport are usually covered with clear cosmoline or something similar. This unit was no exception. Expect to get several shop towels saturated wiping off the bulk of it, then use WD-40 to dissolve and wipe off any of it that remains. It's also a good idea to check the gears for detritis like wood chips and styrofoam that popped off the inside of the crate due to stapling of the crate at the factory to prepare the machine for transport. The stiff, brown grease on the gears in the drive train is for lubrication. As long as it's clean, there's no need to remove it. I plan to keep it well lubricated and use Vactra way oil on the various gibs, dovetails, and Morse tapers. Regular oiling of the lead screws and bearings that have oil ports is best practice and the machine should last for many years if you take care of it. Swarf it down at the end of every work session and when you expect to leave it sitting idle for extended periods of time. One thing that's often overlooked by newcomers is shimming the lathe bed. If you want to maintain tighter tolerances and minimize errors, shim the legs of the lathe bed to remove any twists. The rubber feet supplied with the lathe are not helpful in this regard. Bolt the lathe feet to a heavy bench and add shims. YouTube has several good videos showing how to do this. As to the several comments about the motor not running, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!. There are several interlocks on this machine. The plastic cover over the lathe chuck has an interlock to ensure it is closed. The motor will not run if the cover is open. The Forward and Reverse switch on the front of the unit has to be set to the desired direction or the switch will trip out. And ALWAYS be sure to stop the machine when changing gears or directions. This thing isn't like a vehicle. Any time the gears or direction are changed, ensure the chuck is not turning! One other thing worth mentioning is that tachometer sensor under the end cover has to be close (but not touching) the left end of the lathe shaft. The small metal studs must clear the tachometer sensor. But if the sensor is too far away, the tachometer might register the rotational speed as something other than what it actually is. When I first turned on my machine, mine was reading about half the correct value. This is easy to fix by pushing the sensor a little closer to the shaft encoders, the small studs surrounding the end of the shaft. I have also seen a few people complaining about the lathe tools. These are brazed carbide cutters and need to be correctly sharpened before using. As with most brazed carbide cutters, it's up to the user to profile and sharpen them as needed before using them. You will likely also need to shim them in the tool holder to center them up to your workpiece. The lathe tool muti-tool holder will allow several cutter sizes. The ones in the included kit are 10mm x 10mm. If the cutter isn't lined up with with the vertical center of the workpiece, then watch some Youtube videos that explain how to do it. There is plenty of support for these machines on the Internet. If you have trouble finding videos, remember these all use similar parts that are made in the same factories in China. I agree that the multi-tool holder is a bit lacking and perhaps even more than a little clumsy. And depending on the metal you are working with, brazed carbide cutters might not be the best choice. They are typically used for cutting mild steel. Materials like high speed steel (HSS), titanium nitride, or cobalt steel cutter tools might be a better choice for other metals. It's just a budget tool holder with some general purpose tools for those who might not need anything better. There are lots of tool manufacturers with thousands of specialized tools available. Several recommendations are Shars Tool, Harvey Tools, and Tormach. There are several after-market quick change tool holders that will fit this machine with little or no modification. Remember, you are at liberty to add after-market parts and modify this machine as you desire. For small shop and hobbyist work, it's impossible to guess what every end user might need or expect. So watch videos, read books from the old timers, and ask questions. Someone will likely have a solution for whatever you may encounter. Also, remember that the larger the machine, the greater the cost for the tooling and work holding attachments. The cost of tooling and add-ons goes up exponentially with size of the machine. Many production shops that are trying to reduce turnaround time will expect more than the mini lathes and mini mills are capable of. If you expect the small machines to plow through the toughest metals with just a few passes, they just aren't capable of doing so. But most are capable of doing a decent job if you aren't in a hurry, take shallower cuts, use the right cutting tools, and don't have a long line of customers waiting. If you don't believe me, then look at what some of the so-called "model engineers" do with these things and even smaller machines of various brands. A good place to start is with the Home Shop Machinist books by Village Press, Inc if you are here in the US, and with lathe and mill books from Fox Chapel Books if you are in the UK or other countries. Amazon has both available.

Just received the Vevor 7x14 mini-lathe and did some work with it. You do need to clean it up a bit, as others have commented. It’s shipped with a thin layer of protective grease. Easy to clean off, I hosed it down with WD-40, wiped it down, then lined the ways with way oil. I did not disassemble the lathe as some suggest; prob would be better but I was able to clean it up to my own satisfaction. Anyway - I’m an HVAC guy who is also a nationally certified maintenance & reliability technician and a trained machinist (yeah - I’m old). I’m blown away by this little lathe!!! I did not need to make ANY adjustments, the jobs are perfect and this thing cuts as well as my dads Smithy 3-in-1 that cost six times as much. I machine mostly aluminum racebike parts so for my needs this has plenty of power. You can make quick work of turning spacers, etc. If you’re going to turn steel I’m sure it will do fine if you take your time. All in all, I already love this thing and I’m sure I will use it a lot.

Packaging was good. I did have to tighten some loose hardware but I’m not taking any points off for that because you really need to take these things apart some anyway when they are new so you can clean the packing grease off. The Lathe works well for what it is, the more USA little weak but I may be trying to take too deep of cuts (my first lathe) my only real issue it that the power safety switch failed after my first passes and I had to go digging online to order a new one. It does seem to be a common part and not expensive though maybe $15-$20. I will update this review if the new safety switch does not repair the problem but I’m sure it will because I can hold it down and th lathe works so the internal solenoid part of the switch must have failed.

Overall the machine is alright for the price. It does have some backlash issues though, especially in the cross slide, and getting rid of it basically boils down to a balance between having either 1-15mil backlash or hulkish crank difficulty. It is okay once you have found the sweet spot but it takes some tweaking and is never really smooth over a full rotation. Really my biggest complaint is that they sent 12mm cutting tools, which are about 0.7mm short of center on a rod and there is no vertical adjustment. Clearly the compound was designed for 1/2" cutting tools, which means I need to buy some of those, or otherwise buy an attachment with a vertical adjustment. Would be nice if they would exchange just the useless tools for some that fit the machine. Would give an additional star for that. Update: changed to 1 star. there has always been a rattling in the lathe I can't get rid of, and I found the source, shown in one of the videos. The belt drive gear is crooked as a politician and it was made that way. Aside from that, the head stock and tail stock were misaligned in a major way, such that I had to machine the cast iron parts to try to get them to line up. Vevor is the worst tool company I have ever bought from, and they do not have any replacement parts available to fix their awful "precision" tools with, plus the parts that are available from other better companies are not compatible with their junk, so once the thing stops working the way you need it to, that's it you have to either replace it or give up on your jobs. I have bought a lot of things from Vevor now and I can tell you unequivocally that you should avoid this company unless you want to buy something you have to fix before you can use it. Their stuff is cheap in every way, and some of the things I have look like they were purposely manufactured out of alignment. I can't return my tools to them anymore because I have had to take them apart and machine them and replace pieces right out of the box, and fabricate new parts just to get them working well enough to barely slide by on the jobs I bought them to do. Delaying the job to deal with returns and whatever just isn't an option. I am super upset about the lathe, this one is useless for the work I do. Vevor has completely lost my business and I will tell every single person to never ever buy tools from them, or anything else they sell whatsoever. The problems I've had with their products are unforgivable

You should get this lathe, but just make sure your committed to actually wanting to machine. This is because the lathe has some loose parts and is also a bit out of alignment, !!BUT!! Everything can be adjusted, which is actually a good thing because all veteran machinist recommend newbies such as myself who never owned a lathe before to tear it apart to learn all about your lathe so it’s actually a pro to have to adjust the parts as you learn right off the go how to do it. I’ve watched several YouTube videos to learn about using a lathe and how to adjust its parts etc. Also bolt the lathe down to a desk/table to reduce vibrations as it is not as big as industrial lathes so is more prone to vibrations if not bolted onto something. The machine can cut various materials however tougher(steel etc)materials require thinner cut and softer materials(aluminum, brass etc) can be done in deeper cuts. You also have to learn what speed to to run the machine at with different materials to get the smoothest/cleanest cuts possible so I recommend buying metal tubes/bars for practice to learn(I bought my material from Home Depot). All in all this is a great machine to use and works really well when adjusted correctly! I would recommend for anyone trying to get there hands on their first lathe

Here is a Lathe, complete enough to machine materials like brass, plastic and with some patience steel. The accuracy and precision will require some additional effort from the buyer. The project aspect is disassembly for deburring many of the parts, to improve the mating surface finishes while learning new skills building confidence the machine will last as good fits make a big difference. Accessories you will need are a drill chuck, a 3/8 capacity is more than enough along with a live center, OAX tool post, & indexable 3/8 cutting bits. It's comes with brazed carbide bits but sharpening them is difficult if you don't have the skill. Delve into YouTube for techniques and ideas to improve the lathe first to have a good experience, do the work you will be glad you did. The chuck guard must be down to turn it on, so read the manual, it's quick but important. I recommend you keep this guard in place, not removing it. The lathe is all there, tools, ETC. A great learning experience tool. You get both machining with a lathe and learning how they work, the fit and flaws all in one. If a project is ideal, this is for you. If your looking to just get a Lathe to just machine with and go, not so much. I have mine dialed in very nicely now, but this took much work, yet fun to do and learned a lot, including my mistakes too. Included are pictures of the machine and my first project I completed on it. The end without the hole I left long, center drilled and used a center to support the material for machining that feature. Hack sawed off that little extra removing the center feature from that end, then took many light finish face cuts. Last operation the Sleeve used was to protect the surface during chucking to drill and turn the bore end. This is for show only. Cheers from a 90k Hrs. Job Shop Machinist.

Works as it should, for the price this is a solid piece of machinery. Everything seems to line up just fine and I had no problems setting it it up. My first project was a timing wheel and I was able to get a pretty decent surface finish with the provided cutters. The tool post is durable and works directly with 10mm cutting tools. I was able to use some 1/4" cutting tools but I had to make some 1/8" steel plate shims to get it to line up with the center axis. I only wish it had a spindle lock for tapping/dieing.

it arrived on time, in a wooden crate with the machine bolted to the bottom of the crate. how ever everything that wasn't attached to the machine was left laying loose in the crate including the tale stock. there was some light damage picture, an i dont know if it was from the tale stock or boxes of tools gears or tooling but the plexiglass shield over the chuck was broken. everything else seems to be fine, part of the case where the rpm display power switches an other controls looks like it might be bent but theres no signs of anything being hit an everything lines up so i dont think it took a hit but is more just the shape they decide on the case im not sure but its not bent from being hit but other than this everything looks like it suppose to i assume. the down side of the wood crate, it took a hit at some point an broke some of the wood which ended up with little wood chips inside so before i turned the machine on i took the side cover off an checked to make sure everything looked ok an i found little pieces of the wood chips stuck in the grease on the gears so i cleaned all this out an all the oil off the machine to get that clean of wood an then tried turning it on an nothing, then realized i had removed the shield an left the arm flipped back an when i flipped it back forward the display came on so that was a safety feature i didnt expect from this machine so kinda happy about that, then turned the knob to forward an the rpm knob an slowly made my way through an was able to get it to run from 50ish to 2260ish so i super glued the broken shield back together to have something on the machine an so far with my very little experience it seems to work the way it should, i started with a small piece of wood then went to aluminum an it was very satisfying to work the machine even with not knowing what i was doing but i managed to get the aluminum to come off in a long coil so i took that as good, not 100% if this is what im suppose to go for or if its the chips, i need to do some more research so i know what to expect. but for the money i dont think u can beat it an if your like me every dime counts an me buying it is not going to help me make money until i get competent in using it and incorporating it into my other project which will be the easy part, figuring out how to get the best results with what i got will be the hard part. if something changes an i have issues i'll be back to update.

No se encuentra centrado así que el material se suelta de la mordasa, en relación con el contrapunto ahí es más evidente que tiene una desviación, así que el material que se maquina toma la forma de un cono por la desviación de 4mm que tiene.