MAXXHAUL 50516 4,400 lb. Capacity Low Profile Car Ramps, 2-Pack, Set of 2

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Most people probably use these just to gain enough lift to put a jack under a lowered car, but on a stock ride height car I use these for tasks which require just a small amount of space under the front of the car, that don't require steering or removal of the wheels, fluid changes are the ideal jobs for these. I absolutely LOVE these, I've used them quite a bit and the ease at which I can get the car up and off of it makes it possible for me to do things without attracting attention, I use these to do fluid changes in the corner of a parking lot for example. I bought the short version too, not the long one, I like the short version because I want to get the car on the ramps quickly, it also gives you more space behind the wheels (where you'd place jack stands), if for whatever reason you need to get at something from the side. If you overshoot them they won't damage your car because they're not high enough, I know this because I've overshot wooden ramps of a similar length and height because those didn't have stops at the end, it did nothing to the car, didn't even touch the rocker panels. These are not easy to overshoot, the stop at the end is very effective, the first time I used them I didn't overshoot, I have never overshot on them since and I've used them to do multiple oil changes. To make sure I don't overshoot them I lower my window, stick my arm out with a large hand mirror, and angle it so I can watch the wheel climb up the ramp. The mirror lets me see where I am so I don't gun it, but the stops at the ends of the ramps are what really stops me, since I can't stop the car fast enough by the time it gets to the top. Once your wheels are cradled into the ramps, put the transmission in neutral, let off the brakes so the wheels settle/roll to the center of the cradle naturally, put it in park, engage parking brake, chock one or both of the wheels, now you're ready to work. I've used these with two cars that both have roughly the same ride height, a 9th Gen. Civic and a 10th Gen. Civic, both with stock ride height (not lowered) which is ~6 inches, with the car on these ramps it adds ~3 inches for ~9 inches of space under it. If you're not a big person this gap is adequate room to do most things under the engine and transmission, like oil and oil filter changes, transmission fluid changes, especially if you've done them on your car before, you have the proper tools, you know how to do them already, and there are no unknowns (you know that your drain plug and oil filter are not over-tightened). An oil and oil filter change fits within these parameters so I use these to do quick oil and oil filter changes in the back of a random parking lot at night, it's over within an hour. A 5 quart jug of Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W-20 costs ~$30, oil filter costs $11, these ramps save a ton of money in the long run, especially if you use cheaper oil and oil filters than I do. For tools: 1. You will need short screwdrivers to release under-cover clips, since you don't have enough space vertically. 2. The oil filter will require an oil filter wrench, even if you went hand-tight last time they always become tighter, you don't have room to put your shoulder into it, you're spitting into the wind without an oil filter wrench, they only cost a few dollars anyway. I only use oil filter wrenches which can fit a ratchet drive onto, so either a cap oil filter wrench or the ones that have jaws that bite into the oil filter harder as you loosen. I only use ratchet drive filter wrenches because you can put an extension on them so your ratchet is away from the engine and will clear the oil pan, strap wrenches have to work near the engine and you don't have clearance, they're annoying. (DON'T do anything stupid here trying to be cheap, like not buying an oil filter wrench and trying to punch a screwdriver into the filter to twist it off, you'll make things worse, someone tried that, missed, and their screwdriver went through their cast aluminum oil pan.) 3. For the drain pan: short pans are "better" since vertical space is lacking, those circular drain pans that are roughly 4-5 inches in height will be perfect (ex: the Walmart "Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan"). I use a big one anyway that's about 7-8 inches in height (the Walmart "Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan") and it still fit. I prefer the taller pans, even though it only gives you about 3 inches in height between the pan and the drain plug, the stream of oil goes right into the pan with virtually no room for it to miss. (PLEASE understand how oil drains and don't spill a drop of oil on the ground! If your engine has an oil pan where the drain plug is on the side of the pan: the stream shoots outward usually about half a foot to one foot away from the drain plug. The distance it shoots away depends on how much oil is in the pan and whether you have the oil filler cap or dipstick off; more oil in the pan and the filler cap off means oil shoots furthest away. Draw an imaginary arc from the drain plug that extends out about a foot and hits the ground, that's where your drain pan should be or you'll miss the oil stream. You still want some portion of the drain pan to be directly under the side drain plug, you either need a pan wide enough or to move it as the oil drains, because the arc decreases until it's pouring straight down at the end when there's no oil left in the pan. Watch some videos on YouTube of people draining oil from their oil pan, watch how the oil streams out, don't pollute the environment!) For the 10th Gen. Civic oil change specifically: 1. You only need to get your body under the car far enough to get to the two under-cover clips all the way at the back of the under-cover, the other four clips and the two phillips screws at the front are all close enough that you can reach them by sticking your arm under the car even without the car on ramps, even if you have short arms. 2. Once you have the six clips and the two phillips screws off, slide the under-cover back and off, that gives you even more room now vertically, since the engine and CVT sit about 3 inches higher than the under-cover. From here it's crucial that you have a long ratchet (preferably an extending one) to give you as much leverage to loosen the drain plug without requiring as much effort, you don't have enough room to exert effort by putting your shoulder into it, so you need to compensate with leverage. Helps to smack the far handle end of the ratchet with your hand like an impact to get the drain plug loose. (You should already know this but you turn it left/counterclockwise to loosen only if you're staring/facing directly at the drain plug, if you're like me and don't go all the way deep under the car and you're actually loosening it from the opposite side of the drain plug, you turn your ratchet to the right/clockwise to loosen instead. Please get the loosening direction right, I don't want you breaking your drain plug off by accident or be sitting there wondering why it's not loosening when you were tightening it the whole time!) 3. The oil filter: you have plenty of height to work here because it's closer to the front of the car than the drain plug, the oil filter is also angled diagonally so technically you don't need an extension bar, any ratchet with an oil filter wrench will clear the oil pan. If you're using a jaw-style oil filter wrench you clamp the jaws onto the filter and use one hand to apply squeezing force to keep the jaws on the oil filter, use the other hand with the ratchet to start loosening it, this squeezing force starts the biting, once it starts biting you can stop squeezing, at this point as you turn the ratchet to loosen it will bite harder without your help (to the point it crushes the filter), then it comes loose. 4. That's it, then you just do the oil change as usual. The important part to understand is that you don't have as much room to put your shoulders into things or make large arm movements, so you need to account for that, use longer tools for added leverage, use oil filter wrenches so you don't have to use your hands and muscles, etc.

Buen producto para uso doméstico y en vehículos que no excedan su capacidad de carga.

These hold up our class B camper van, I use them for leveling as well as maintenance as these B classes are very low to the ground. I've used them now for a couple of years with no issues.

Ma voiture est très basse du devant et j ai essayer d autre rampes qui ne me permettait pas de monter dessus sans endommager mon paré chocs. Je suis très satisfait de ce produit il n' éleve pas très haut mais facilite la tâche pour mettre le Floor Jack.

Mantenimiento en casa, practico, seguro y muy funcional